Drawers



(ModeL) J. G. T'RACEY.

DRAWERS. No. 298,322. Patented May 6, 1884.

I Inventor.-

' y' CAM/02 Attorney.

Unrrnn S rarns PATENT rrrcn JAMES C. TRAOEY, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.-

DRAWERS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 298,322, dated May 6,1884.

Application filed July 24, 1883. (ModeL),

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J. O. TRACEY, a citizen of the United States,residing in Baltimore, Maryland, have invented a certain new and usefulImprovement in the Manufacture of Drawers, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates to improvements in drawers for mens and boys wear;and it consists in an improved method of cutting from the goods theparts of which the drawers are formed, and also in the completedarticle, having certain features, as hereinafter described, and pointedout in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate my invention, Figure l isa front View of the upper part of a pair of drawers. Fig. 2 is a view ofone-half of a pair of drawers laid so as to show the inner side of theleg. Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the position in the piece of goods ofthe several parts which C0111- prise the drawers. I

The letter A designates one-half of the drawers cut in asingle piece.The front edge, I), of the entire half, which is also the front edge ofthe leg-seam, is straight from the waistedge a of the body to the bottomedge, (1, of the leg, which is tied about the ankle. This straight frontedge, b, is always taken from the selvage of the goods.

The letter 0 designates the back body-edge, and f the back edge of theleg. These two edges form at their point of joinder the buttocks-angle6. All the edges of the half of the drawers constitute straight lines.Both the halves are alike. The waist-edge, at the side which comes overthe hi p,ha-s a V-shaped gore or plait, g. The waistband h comprisesfour pieces, which are of the usual pattern. The facings I for thebody-front have a straight edge, j, and their lower end terminates in apoint, It. The crotch-piece L is a single continuous piece, and has onone side a straight edge, a, from the point 0 at one end to the point 0at the other. On the other side the edges 12 commence at the center,where they form an angle, g, which is the widest part, and from thisangle these edges extend to the points at either end. Thereby the saidcrotch-piece tapers on one side from the center angle, q, to

the end points. The straps r for the back buckle are of the usualpattern.

The waistbands, facings, crotch-piece, and bucklestraps, with the halfor leg pieces, comprise all the parts to make a pair of drawers. Theseparts have position in the piece of goods as shown in the diagram, Fig.8. y designates one selvage edge of the piece of goods, and z the other.The straight front edge, I), of the one half of one pair of drawers istaken from the selvage 1 The straight front edge of the other half istaken from the same selvage, the waist-edge c of the two halvesabutting. The straight front edges of the next pair of drawers are takenfrom the other selvage, z, and the tapering back edge, f, of the legwhose front edge is cut from one selvage extends along and is thecounterpart of the tapering back edge of the leg which has its front cutfrom the other selvage. As these adj oining tapering edges are straight,there is no waste whatever in the goods. All the other parts which arenecessary to comprise a pair of drawers are taken from that portion ofthe piece of goods embraced on two sides between the back body-seams, e,of the two halves and the selvage, and on the otherdiametrically-opposite two sides, between the bottom edge, (7, of theleg of one pair and the bottom edge of the leg of another pair, as shownin the diagram. The straight edge j of the facings I is attached to thestraight front edge, I), of the drawers at each side of the fly-opening,and the lower point, k, of the facing extends down to and is directlyattached to the seamless crotch-piece L, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Thevertical edges j of the two facings are'also connected together for ashort space above the crotch-piece. (Indicated at s.) This connection offacings to the continuous or seamless crotch gives strength andstability to the garment. The crotch-piece L is folded at the widestpart or straight acrossfrom the center to the point 0. It is thenattached to the drawer-legs by sewing the straight edgen of one half tothe straight front edge, I), of one leg, and the same edge of the otherhalf to the straight front edge of the other leg. Thereby the fold atthe center angle becomes the seamless crotch.

angle, q. Thus each half tapers from the fold The two taper edges 19 ofthe crotch-piece are each sewed to one of the back edges, f, of thelegs. One of the points 0 of each end of the crotchpiece is in eachdrawer-leg below the knee. The peculiarity of this construction is thatfrom the waist to the ankle the body part on each side of thefly-opening and each leg has a continuous straight edge, I), (theselvage,) and to this edge the straight edge a of the seamlesscrotch-piece is attached, as seen in Fig. 2.

The advantages of this method of cutting and constructing are, first,great economy in goods, the saving actually effected thereby being allthe way from sixteen to twenty-five per cent. of material in makingdrawers from size twenty-eightinches at the waist to size forty inchesat the waist; second, incidentally greater strength, and, third, greatcomfort to the wearer.

I am aware that crotch-pieces having an elongated diamond shape havebeen used, as shown, for instance, in United States Letters Patent No.236,012, and I do not here claimsuch; but the method of cutting theparts and the particular manner of connecting the crotch to the partsare features of my own devising. Having described my invention, I claimand desire to secure by Letters Patent of United States- 1. Theherein-described method of cutting drawers, consisting in cutting thepart comprising the one half of the body and one leg so as to have fromthe waist to the ankle a continuous straight front edge, I), and takingsaid edge from one selvage of the goods, taking the same edge of theother half-body and other leg from the same selvage, the waist-edge ofthe two halves abutting, taking the straight front edges of the nextpair of drawers from the other selvage of the goods, and extending thetapering back edge, f, of the leg whose front is cut from one selvagealong the tapering back edge of the leg which has its front cut from theother selvage, and finally cutting all the other parts necessary tocomplete one pair of drawers from that portion of the goods between theback body-seams, e, of the two halves and the selvage, as shown anddescribed.

2. In a pair of drawers, acontinuous seamless crotch-piece, L, having astraight front edge, a, widest at the crotch or center, and one of thetapering points extending down each drawer-leg, in combination withfront facings, I, on each side ofthe fly-opening, having their lowerpoints, It, attached directly to the said seamless crotch-piece, as setforth.

WM. F. KUETHE, THOMAS BEOOM.

